The selection of shutter speed will determine how long the sensor is exposed to light: Speed = Time.
ISO 200 F10 1 second
Tip: the longer the shutter speed, the more blur and movement you will get.
Observe the length of the red car lights at the left…the longer the lines, the longer the shutter speed.
If I want to eliminate camera shake, ie, movement that shows in the picture from my natural movement as a human being, then I will generally use the following shutter speeds:
…and I’ll take a breath and slowly squeeze the shutter button for these:
and if the god’s are smiling then we’ll throw in 1/15.
With my heavy Canon 5D Mark 2 with beautiful but equally heavy L series lens, when I’m shooting portraits I generally don’t go below 1/160. The last thing I want is to do is exclude an image just because of general camera shake. If there’s movement, then I want it there for a reason.
To test shutter speed, find a decently lit room or shaded area out in your garden out of direct sun, and pick something or someone to photograph that has its/their own natural movement. You might pick the branches on a bush that are moving a lot on a windy day, or in my case, Rosie the dog by the window.
ISO 400 F16 1/8 second
Pick your ISO, in these conditions we ought be safe working at around ISO 400. Stop down your lens to its smallest hole, for example to F16. This means that you will use a relatively longer shutter speed to still let in enough light. In my example with Rosie, the shutter speed for correct exposure was 1/8 second. The resulting image shows a good depth of field of the whole area because of my F16 selection, but also camera movement from me, and the dog moving as well. Blah yuck! 1/8 second shutter speed is evidently just too slow.
ISO 400 F5.6 1/60 second
Then leaving your ISO alone, make the shutter speed faster by 3 stops (this lets in more light), and compensate with your aperture. In my case I changed the shutter speed to 1/60 second and the relative aperture for a correct exposure was F5.6. Rosie the crazy dog moved, a bit of camera movement was still picked up, and everything is still looking unpleasantly blurry.
ISO 400 F2.8 1/250 second
So then increase your shutter speed to be faster by another 2 stops and change your aperture accordingly so you still get a correct exposure. In my case I changed the shutter speed to 1/250 and the aperture went along with it to F2.8. Now I’m working in a safe shutter speed for handheld photography at 1/250 second. The change in aperture means that now the puppy’s face and eyes are sharp and the rest of the body falls out of the depth of field…but most importantly, because of that choice of shutter speed, I now have a sharp picture where it should be, and any movement of either me holding the camera, or the dog’s movement, has been arrested. Yay!
Please submit your comments or questions here on the blog for the benefit of others, thanks!
Sunday 4th July
10am to 1pm
Don’t miss out again! We will go over ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed as well as metering and managing light. These are the basic mechanics of how to manage your camera. Conquer these, and you’ll conquer your camera.
If you would like to join on Seminar 2, please complete the three assignments here on the blog that cover ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed. When you register, I’ll also send you a short question and answer survey to get a guage of your current knowledge.
Come by yourself and pay $85, bring a friend and you each pay $75. I can take 6 people at most so don’ t miss out!
More details may be found here.
See you soon,